Friday, July 30, 2010



T.L.E 40







"CLOTHING AND GROOMING"









SEWING MACHINE


A sewing machine is a textile machine used to stitch fabric or other material together with thread. Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution to decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing companies. Since the invention of the first working sewing machine, generally considered to have been the work of Englishman Thomas Saint in 1790,[1] the sewing machine has vastly improved the efficiency and productivity of fabric and clothing industries.

Needle plate, foot and transporter of a sewing machine
Singer sewing machine
A Merrow A-Class machine
A Merrow 70-Class machine
A Brother serger.

Home sewing machines are all similar -- designed for one person to manually sew individual items while using a single stitch type. Modern sewing machines are designed in such a way that the fabric easily glides in and out of the machine without the hassle of needles and thimbles and other such tools used in hand sewing, automating the process of stitching and saving time.

Industrial sewing machines, by contrast, are larger, faster, more complex, and more varied in their size, cost, appearance, and task.

The fabric shifting mechanism may be a workguide or may be pattern-controlled (e.g., jacquard type). Some machines can create embroidery-type stitches. Some have a work holder frame. Some have a workfeeder that can move along a curved path, while others have a workfeeder with a work clamp. Needle guards, safety devices to prevent accidental needle-stick injuries, are often found on modern sewing machines.


stitch formations

A series of stitch formations, joining 2 colors of fabric. A zigzag stitch could also be a long, wide continuous seam.

Zigzag are lockstitches with a side-to-side width as well as a stitch length. Basic stitch formation is dictated by a stitch pattern cam; maximum pattern width is established by the stitch width regulator. The cams that produce zigzag stitch patterns are single. As the cam rotates, a fingerlike follower, connected to the needle bar, rides along the cam and tracks its indentations. As the follower moves in and out, the needle bar is moved from side to side. A zigzag stitch has more give than a straight stitch, and therefore is less subject to breakage.

Stretch stitching are produced by coordinated motions of needle and feed. While the needle is moving, as for straight or zigzag stitches, the feed is automatically moving the fabric forward and backward. As with zigzag stitches, stretch stitching is cam controlled, but because of the dual action, stretch stitch patterns have double cams. As the double cam rotates, the follower, connected to a needle bar, rides along one track to move the needle bar from side to side. Another follower, connected to the feed, simultaneously rides the other cam track to move the feed forward and reverse stitches as required by the design.


SKIRT PATTERN

A. Begin by making a "T" - top of the "T" is equal to your waist measurement divided by 6. The sample has a waist of 30", so divide 30" by 6 to equal 5". The vertical line (drawn from the center of the top line) is the skirt length, and our sample is 30".

B. The hipline is normally 8" below the waist, so at that point you'll make a horizontal like equal to hip divided by 6 + 1/4". Our sample hip measurement is 42", so the horizontal line is 7 plus 1/4 or 7 1/4".

C. With a straight yardstick, draw in the outside lines of the skirt, connecting the waist to hip to the bottom and draw in the bottom line.

D. At the top center of the "T" measure down 1/4" and make the slight waistline curve. The outside edges of the bottom are measured up 1/4" each and the slight hemline curve drawn.

E. Make your waistband to equal your waist measurement plus 1 1/2", and the width is 2 1/2" (your finished waistband will be 1 1/4" wide).


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